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Routes in Zealand Notch Itself: Whitewall Mountain

Black Knight , The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castle Keep T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lady Slippers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Red Queen (unfinished), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Teresa Nagle and Bradley White, summer 2010
Page Views: 1,093 total, 12/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 8, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

I scrambled right up the slab half way and the into the trees. Teresa stayed in the center and finished the slab 100ft (the slab has some steep bulging sections too, that would require bolting). At the top of the slab we traversed right away from the trees onto a decent belay stance. Above our stance, Teresa led up a flaring outcrop of rock and onto face climbing until the next tree ledge was reach (90ft). From this tree ledge move up the face until the right facing ramp is reached. Exit ramp onto ledge and traverse north until decent belay is reached (110ft). Climb up into the left facing ramp and move right and up to top off in sandy rocky sloping surface. Climb this until tree belay is reached (90ft).
To create the four star route do the first pitch of 'The Red Queen' and on the second pitch head diagonally north to reach the first belay ledge stance of 'Castle Keep'. Doing the climb this way will be on solid fine granite rock except for the last pitch ending that is conway granite with some wedged and loose rocks on it, that aren't a bother.

Location

Head up the northern side of the widest middle talus field.

Protection

TCU's are very helpful. #2-2.5 friend. Some small to medium stoppers, A couple of lost arrow and blade pitons.

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