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Routes in Stump Buttress

Crow's Nest, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daddy Duty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Marmot Eater T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C2-
Nescafé Sandwich T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Northwest Face T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 151 total, 2/month
Shared By: SeanKuus Kuusinen on Aug 8, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route follows the obvious dihedral on the south face of Stump Buttress. The climbing is 5.8 and 5.9 all the way, with some sections of devious pro. There are anchors at the top of P1 and P3, so you need two ropes to get off.

P1: Start at the base of the west face of Stump Buttress. Start up the gully between The Needle (the 200 foot tall detatched pillar) and Stump. After about 50 feet of gully climbing, gain the thin crack in the right-facing corner. Climb this crack for 60 more feet to the anchor (5.9).

P2: Climb the crack off the belay. Stemming relieves some of the tenuousness of this first 30 feet. Gain the ledge then scramble up to the obvious chimney. Pull through this chimney (crux 1) then climb another 15 feet to the base of a large roof, belay here (5.9).

P3: Climb the roof (crux 2). After the roof you'll be on a ledge. From here, take the right-most crack (5.7) to the summit anchors. Say "hi" to the crows.

Protection

Standard rack to 4". Two ropes.

Photos

Where is the anchor at the top of pitch 3? Jun 4, 2012