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Routes in Wheaties Boulder

Type: Boulder, Alpine, 8 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,332 total, 15/month
Shared By: mikejohnson1 Johnson on Aug 6, 2010
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Sit start on the steep wall, work your way out the the arete, slap up, and top out. Stand start goes at V4.

Location

Past the parking lot, just past the narrowest part of the notch on your way to stow. There is a place to park right next to this boulder, but if you are going to work on problems there, you might not want to park your car there.

Protection

A pad.

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6
Having climbed this again recently, I have to agree with Colin. This is really more of a crouch start, starting as described in my above comment.

Pretty comparable to all the other v6's at Smuggs, in my opinion. Oct 1, 2013
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  V6-7
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  V6-7
Couple things worth mentioning:

1. The sit start is no longer a "sit" start as the ground has eroded significantly (unless your really tall).

2. Most people think the Masochist is quite hard for V6 - though I concur its probably only a 6+ or 7-

3. Great line that veers just to the right of the Masochist (not the V4) called the Sadomasochist and is also V6/7. This line starts the same as "The Masochist" but uses an obvious left hand sidepull just a few inches from the arete itself and some high feet to launch up and right to the lip (i.e. you stay right of the arete instead of left). Some people like this variation better (I do) as it is less painful crimping (though requires more core strength and dynamic power). Jul 20, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6
I was talking to Bill Patton about this problem the other day and he told me a couple interesting things. First, this problem was originally done from a stand start by a very tall local (the original guidebook author) reaching the very high left hand sidepull from the ground! Bill then started working on the low/sit start (and was ridiculed for it since sit starts were unheard of at the time) since he could not reach the holds of the stand start. He says that the sit/low start begins crouched with the left hand on the low crimper sidepull on the arete and right hand on the crimp. You can start lower but it doesn't really make the climb any harder and it definitely doesn't make it better. Pick some feet and make a big move up to the high left hand sidepull (crux). A few tricky moves bring you to some wonderful top out jugs.

Anyhow just wanted to give some insight into the sit start and stand start because the current guidebook doesn't make the starting holds of each very clear. If anyone has anything more to add, let me know! May 28, 2012