Type: Trad, 420 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Paul Ross, Geoff Oliver (alt. leads) May 29, 1960
Page Views: 163 total · 2/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Aug 6, 2010
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

You & This Route


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Description

A Great Climb. The standard of difficulty is well maintained and some of the best pitches on the crag are included. Starts right of the rib where the climb of Final Giggle starts. P1)From the left end of the rock ledge climb a shallow groove to a square overhang and pull over to the left. Make an ascending traverse leftwards into the groove of Angels Highway and climb it,passing a small tree , until it is possible to move left to a large ledge. Go left behind a huge flake and belay below a chimney.110'5.9- P2)Step round the steep arete,cross a bottomless groove and follow interrupted gangways descending slightly to the belay below the final pitch of Thirmere Eliminate. (this is P3 of Rigor Mortis in reverse)35'5.9- P3) Climb the left wall of the corner until it is possible to pull around the rib on the left and traverse into Zig Zag. Descend the easy slab on the left.45'5.8 P4)Ascend the slab on the left to the pinnacle. From its top step onto the gangway and follow it to its top. Move down and left and climb steeply to a recess with a Yew tree.(P3 of Overhanging Bastion)110'5.8+ P5) Descend the steep wall below until it is possible to move left to a recess and belays. (P4 The Barbican in reverse).35'5.7.P6)Move up to the top of the narrowing gangway on the left and make a blind move left to reach a flake crack and resting place at its top. Traverse left round the corner into a niche. Pull awkwardly out right to reach easier ground and the top . ( P4 North Crag Eliminate)80'5.10a

Location

Castle Rock of Triermain. Thirlmere /St Johns Valley. About 5 miles from town of Keswick. See FRCC Guide book to Buttermere and the Eastern Crags

Protection

Cams and stoppers.

Photos

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