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Land of the Midnight Sun

5.10a/b, Trad, 130 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 8 votes
FA: Eric Tipton, Kenn Kenaga, Pat Brennan (2000)
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear South > Arctic Temple

Description

Excellent route with good gear placements. Straight up and follow the right traversing hand to off-hands crack (crux) which ends on a good ledge/stance. After the traverse, follow the right hand and finger crack up to the tree and top out as per usual.

Location

Farthest right route that is not the arete (Wild Turkey Arete). Start just left of the giant cave-like block.

Protection

Gear to 3" (double #3 camalots nice)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Greg standing just left of the start of Land of the Midnight Sun, which starts at the bush and the black hole.
[Hide Photo] Greg standing just left of the start of Land of the Midnight Sun, which starts at the bush and the black hole.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Simon H
Oakland, CA
  5.10
[Hide Comment] The awkward 3" opening splitter crack leans heavily to the right, moving parallel to the steep hillside. As a result, you don't really get out of groundfall range for a while with this one, and you'll want at least 2 #3 cams to protect it adequately. I thought this was challenging for the grade Jun 3, 2012