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Routes in Mungo Jelly Block

Amoebob, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dead Ringer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hard Corey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Idiots Rule T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mr Green Genes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mungo Jelly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Take a Stab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terror of Tiny Tim T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Terror of Tiny Tom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 252 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Aug 2, 2010
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

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Description

Start to the right of the arete and climb up passing a few horizontal cracks. They take great gear. Continue to reach a stance on the arete, just below the bolt. Clip the bolt and make a few thin moves to reach the horizontal crack at the top (crux). Doing the moves above the bolt feels a little committing, however the hardest part is just setting off from the good stance. Trust the friction!

The best descent option is to walk along the cliff to the right and lower off the new shuts above Terror of Tiny Tom. You can also bushwack straight back across the top of the block and lower from the chain anchors above Terror of Tiny Tim.

Location

From the approach trail, head right and continue straight through the corridor. After passing a campfire ring on your left, this is the arete at the far end of the right wall.

Protection

Gear less than 1" (small cams or tri cams). 1 bolt. There is a 2 bolt anchor on the top, but as of 8/2010, these are still the older bolts, use caution.

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