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Routes in The Alpenglow Wall

Chockstone Arete, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Equilibrium S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fragile Balance S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Help Gain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Splittsville? S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Un-named S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: R. Karden?
Page Views: 624 total, 7/month
Shared By: Chip Loomis on Aug 2, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The crux of this route is between the second and third bolt. A fall here could be painful due to a the jagged rock right behind the climber. It might make for a better top-rope. This becomes a harder climb without stemming in the chimney.

Location

It is the first bolted line to the left of The Chockstone Arete. It has a top anchor.

Protection

5 (or 7) bolts.

Photos

Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
I found the location of the second bolt to be quite poor. As it is, one must enter into some of the crux moves before reaching the bolt. With that fin of rock in the landing zone one could easily get seriously hurt trying to make that clip.

It should be moved down about 15 inches. I wouldn't add any bolts though. Just relocate the second. There is a good #0.75 Camalot before the third bolt. May 28, 2013
summit climber
  5.9+ PG13
summit climber  
  5.9+ PG13
This has 7 bolts (I climbed it 7/12/11). 2 more bolts might be added to improve safety sometime in the future. Jul 12, 2011
Ryan Byrn
  5.9+ R
Ryan Byrn  
  5.9+ R
I believe this route has six bolts...the guidebook says "eight" and MTN Project says "five". There are a couple of nice little shelves to get on top of this route. May 11, 2011
I believe this route is listed in the Summit Climbing Guide as Splittsville FA R. Karden Aug 15, 2010