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Routes in Swan Slab

5.6 Chimney Above Grant's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aid Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bay Tree Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bobcat Crack T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Claude's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Funge on Munge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Goat for it T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grant's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lena's Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oak Tree Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oak Tree Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Penelope's Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penthouse Cracks T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pin Scar Seams T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seamilicious TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Swan Slab Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Swan Slab Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ugly Duckling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Unknown Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unnamed Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Crack (the other one) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Face Route TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed Thin Crack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed flared crack / boulder problem TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
V-Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Slabs TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,634 total · 17/month
Shared By: Derek Anderson on Aug 1, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description [Edit]

Just left of the 5.8 alcove boulder problem there is a flaring crack that is a mix of face/lb/jam. The crux is the first set of moves and climbing gets easier the higher you get. This is a decent lead although short and can be toproped with the tree if you scramble up the easier terrain. If leading take 1-4.5" pro For the bottom and extra long runners for the topanchor.

Location [Edit]

The route is on the main face of the swan slabs just to the right of the alcove boulder problem and the 5.1 gully. Look for a flaring crack that starts a few feet off the ground and gets wider as you get higher. Many different options for getting down from the tree anchor.

Protection [Edit]

The crack takes medium/large gear, once above the crack and on a huge ledge you can continue up on 5.0 terrain for a few feet to a large tree that can be slung with extra long runners. The tree is about 30' up


Floyd Hayes
Floyd Hayes  
If you look carefully, both the Reid and Supertopo guides have an arrow pointing to the base of the climb with the label "5.9 move." And it's hard for 5.9! I've seen it shut down friends of mine who have climbed a lot of 5.10s. It's a nice lead, my son's first "5.9." To the left of it there is a steeper and wider "5.7" and a diagonal "5.8," both stiff for the grade. EDIT: See my later comment on June 12, 2017. I changed my rating to 5.7. Aug 2, 2010
Derek Anderson
Derek Anderson   Tucson,AZ
I believe I was on the 5.7 crack , and that this description/route shoud be for that. However it was my first time in Yosemite and I'm not sure exactally what is what yet so please forgive me if I made a mistake. Aug 3, 2010
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
Floyd Hayes' comment is meant for lena's lieback which is one crack to the right of this one. This is the crack that Floyd calls "a steeper and wider 5.7" in his description. First move on this is the crux, and it really isn't that stiff of a move. I'd say that 5.7 is accurate for the rating, I only rated it 5.4 to offset Floyd's 5.10a rating since he rated the wrong route. Sep 7, 2010
Brian Snider
Brian Snider   NorCal
The first step is so greasy it felt like 10a but with some grip 5.7 would be appropriate. After the first move its pretty easy and barely worth climbing, unless your waiting for something else to do in the area. Jun 13, 2011
Jason Schmidt
Ghent, MN
Jason Schmidt   Ghent, MN
If you look even closer you'd see that the picture DOES indicate the short 5.7 boulder problem,(the boulder in the upper left corner of the picture is above the diagonal 5.8 FH mentions),the problem with the slick 5.9 move is to the right and usually has a cheat rock at the base, and NONE of these cracks are Lena's Lieback which is way, waaay farther right. Sep 29, 2011
Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
R R  
Can also sling the chockstone higher up and use as a directional... seemed pretty solid (I know i used a double runner, but I can't remember if I had to extend it a little further with a single. Feb 26, 2015
Mark P Thomas
Mark P Thomas   Draper
For pro, just bring 1 #5 BD C4 cam and leap-frog it as needed. Feb 22, 2016
Floyd Hayes
Floyd Hayes  
Reading through this for the first time since I wrote my comment in 2010, I see the source of confusion: the "Description" says "Just LEFT of the 5.8 alcove boulder problem" and the "Location" says "just to the RIGHT of the alcove boulder problem" (emphasis mine). The photograph reveals that the "Description" is wrong and the "Location" is accurate. There is another 5.8 alcove-like problem farther right, just left of Swan Slab Chimney, which was what I first understood, and Jonathan Steitzer added a link to the route my comment referred to. I've seen these cracks referred to as Patio Cracks, in which case this route could be referred to as Patio Cracks--Center. Jun 12, 2017

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