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Routes in Castle Rock - East Face

Black Tower Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Damsel in Distress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy As Your Best Friends Sister T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hard As Your Husband T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trebuchet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Brad Singer (?)
Page Views: 189 total · 2/month
Shared By: Chris D on Aug 1, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts in the crack between Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend and Black Tower Crack. Follow the crack to a stance on a ledge, take the rounded, left-facing flake up and pass the crux moving from the steep start to easier pleasant climbing up the face to anchors for Easy as your Sister's Best Friend.

Stay far enough to the right that the bolts for Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend are out of reach.

I'd be surprised if this worthwhile route hadn't been done on TR at some time, but it appears in no guide, and we did it on gear.

Protection

A couple #1, #2, and maybe a #3 Camalot. Slings and smaller gear for the upper half of the route. No bolts

Photos

Mary Moser
Joshua Tree, CA
Mary Moser   Joshua Tree, CA
The move past the flake seemed hard for the grade, but perhaps it's just height dependent. A bolt here would have been nice to protect a powerful sort of mantle move, but the flake does take a good piece of gear. Falling here would result in a pendulum, so bring an attentive belayer. Easy enough to top rope after leading Black Tower Crack. Jul 23, 2011