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Routes in Castle Rock - Black Tower Buttress

Headwall Center T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headwall Left TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Headwall Right T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lower Black Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Unknown, 1970's
Page Views: 105 total · 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Aug 1, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start at a thin crack/seam and climb up to a bolt then make crux moves as you work left with good flakes for the hands and marginal feet to gain an obvious curving crack. Continue up the fun crack to it's end, pass a horizontal and then stand up on flakes to clip another bolt which protects moves over the shoulder and onto the slab above which is followed to anchors atop the tower.

The protection is actually good on this route but until the 1/4" bolts with Leeper hangers are replaced this should be considered a serious lead.

Location

West face of the Black Tower.

Protection

2 bolts (1/4"), gear to 1.5", bolted anchors (shared with Black Tower Crack)

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a R
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a R
Marc Burns and I did this and Headwall Center as a 2-pitch route, it was a fun outing. Apr 15, 2011
spencerstewart Stewart
Big Bear Lake, CA
spencerstewart Stewart   Big Bear Lake, CA
Leeper Hanger! Looks pretty homemade!
Apr 5, 2014

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