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Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall
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Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Band of Gypsies T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blackbeard’s Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Byzantine T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Dancing Gypsy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dike Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Dr. Stix’s Flying Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Exit Laughing (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fat Gypsy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fingers on a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Girls From Brewer (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gypsy Arete TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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High Plains Drifter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jungle Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Juvenile T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 5.15+ 9b+ 38 XII+ 39 E11 8b |
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Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Midnight Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Muscle Shoals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Originator Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Philadelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pirates of Penzance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Popeye’s Arete T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pressure Drop T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Ramp Traverse, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reef Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Road Less Traveled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Road To Nowhere T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Scaramouche T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Selfless Bastard T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Side Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Small Crack Warning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Southern Fried Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tempest, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,128 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Corson on Jul 31, 2010 |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
Details
For details visit:
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a real moderate trad climb suitable for beginner leaders. The difficult sections are the start and about mid way up but very well protected.
Start at a right facing corner behind a clump of trees(birch if I remember correctly). Climb this vertical section to gain the ledge above to begin traversing left. Follow this ledge or 'Ramp' to the left twenty feet. Then climb up to gain the second ramp which may be the crux of the climb if it's not the beginning. Leader should be aware even though he/she is a good distance off the ground that the ledgey nature of this route means a 'ground fall' is closer than the ground. Finish the climb by continuing up and left.
Start at a right facing corner behind a clump of trees(birch if I remember correctly). Climb this vertical section to gain the ledge above to begin traversing left. Follow this ledge or 'Ramp' to the left twenty feet. Then climb up to gain the second ramp which may be the crux of the climb if it's not the beginning. Leader should be aware even though he/she is a good distance off the ground that the ledgey nature of this route means a 'ground fall' is closer than the ground. Finish the climb by continuing up and left.
Location
From the 'Park Loop Road', there is a climbers trail just after the parking lot for Precipice. this route is on the first wall you encounter named 'Lower Wall' This route starts on 'Lower Wall Right' and ends on 'Lower Wall Right'.
Protection
Standard rack consisting of small to medium cams and nuts. I didn't have a need for to many nuts but they could be placed. There is NO rappel anchor for this route. The guide book suggest to climb over the 4th class section above this route to the granite stairs that lead to 'Precipice Right' area. [2016 NOTE: The present Guidebook states to "traverse up to the "Retlaw" double bolt anchor, which is what we did and lowered down to the ground. We had a 70m, but there was enought rope left I think an 60m would be OK also...KNOT YOUR ENDS..,"just in case". R Hall, ME Admin.] I didn't know this at the time and traversed way right to a tree on a ledge that had a rappel point already set up.
I didn't use any gear bigger than a #3 Camalot
I didn't use any gear bigger than a #3 Camalot
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