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Routes in Otter Cliffs

Flake, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Adair by the Sea T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Alcove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barnacle Baits TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brochure Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cakewalk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Child's Play TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chockstone Chimney TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Choppy Seas TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cliff Traverse V0-1 4+
Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coppertone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crab Roll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crucifix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deep Blue Sea TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dike Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drunken Sailor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ebb and Flow TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Engel Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fisherman's Folly TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Gallery Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallery, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Chimney, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Greenway TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greybeard TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillemot Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Guillotine T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
High Tide Girdle Traverse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In The Groove T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Inner Sanctum TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jamcrack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lady Luck TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maine Central TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mermaid TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystic, The TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nerve Damage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Book TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Otter Point TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out to Sea TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Outer Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Overview of Otter Cliffs "Sub-Areas" T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Peak Performance T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Plaque Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Razorback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rising Tide TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rock Lobster TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling Swells TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seabreeze TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seafarer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Small Cove Problem V0+ 4+
Sober Seaman T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spray Deck TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Staircase TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Starfish TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
State of Maine TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Submariner TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Summer Camp Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Swing Time TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tap Dance TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wave Action TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whitecaps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wiessner Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonder Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderwall - Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wounderwall - Right TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zephyr TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,018 total · 21/month
Shared By: Jeremy Corson on Jul 31, 2010
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

This route starts in front of the overhang that is a little lower than chest height. There are nice starting hand holds for climbers of most heights however the first foot hold, although it's nice, is high which adds to the difficulty of the start. I saw many beginners borrowing the start of the neighbouring route 'In The Grove' located to the right but this may effect the grade.

Location

This route is located on the section of of Otter cliffs called 'Wonderwall' in the guide book.

Protection

Fixed Anchors are perfect for top roping this route

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Lapped this and the 5.6 route more up the middle. Definitely my favorite section of wall at Otter Cliffs. You cqan go a few feet in either direction and go from 5.6 to 5.8. If the 5.8 is too stiff, step back right/left to the 5.6-ish stuff and proceed from there. Many lines on the wall! The older pocket guide we have states the wall is 5.6 - 5.8, and before I even read that it was what I thought too. Definitely a MUST CLIMB at Otter Cliffs. Face climbing fun. Aug 22, 2010
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
It's hard to imagine anyone doing these Wonderwall routes the same way. Holds and cracks galore! I think you could easily make this wall go at 5.5-5.6 and it would be great for beginners. Climbing the left side and the right side off one anchor made for a very good warmup. There is a staple directly above - one of the easiest anchors there to build! Oct 2, 2013

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