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Routes in Billy the Kid Wall

Celsa Vaca S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doc Scurlock S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I'll Make you Famous S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
That Be Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jason Stevens
Page Views: 602 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jason Stevens on Jul 31, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

First route right of the water/moss streak. The name means "Celsa the Cow", a derogatory name given to an overweight Mexican girl rumored to have eyes for Billy the Kid

Location

First route right of the water/moss streak. Rap from carabiners/fixed anchors under the roof.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
 
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
 
The anchors were a little weird on this route from the beginning. People kept stealing the carabiner off the chain which made the cold-shut out of alignment. I pulled the anchor station, left one bolt with a hanger as a lead bolt and moved the anchor another 10' up the wall. It is now immediately under the overhang. The bolts are Fixe glue-ins and I installed steel Metolius captive Gym carabiners.

NOTE TO GREEDY AND LOW IQ FOLKS WHO PILFER ROUTE HARDWARE:

IF CARABINERS ARE ATTACHED TO THE ANCHOR STATION IT IS NOT ABANDONED CLIMBER TACKLE. THEY ARE TO MAKE YOUR LIFE 1) EASIER AND 2) SAFER – BECAUSE YOU DON'T HAVE TO UNTIE AND THREAD CHAINS.

TOPROPE ROUTES THROUGH YOUR OWN QUICKDRAWS, EXTENDING CONSIDERABLY THE LIFE OF THE PERMANENT ANCHORS. WHEN YOU ARE DONE WITH THE ROUTE SIMPLY CLIP THE ANCHORS AND LOWER. Apr 8, 2017