Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,008 total · 25/month
Shared By: Cristina M on Jul 31, 2010 · Updates
Admins: sara pax, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M

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Description Suggest change

This is possibly the best 5.7 range trad route in the area. It is #18 on the Mormon Hollow general page, but it deserves a name and description! It follows a stunning crack system through a wide variety of holds, from slopers to finger cracks to pocket side-pulls. It is definitely worth climbing. The crux is near the birch tree 2/3rds of the way up.

This ascends the crack to the right of Methodical Madness.

Location Suggest change

From Tree Crack (past the big dead tree you walk through), walk up into the gully to your right to the base of a slabby boulder. Climb the boulder and traverse over the cave exit up into the crack system.

To get down, either rap off the chains or climb up and come back down a climber's trail in the gully right next to the route. Enter the cave for a fun sidetrack!

Protection Suggest change

Basic trad rack: small to medium nuts and cams. There are chains at the top for rappelling and top rope, but don't top rope through them please. One bolt was loose at the time of writing.