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Routes in Mormon Hollow

1. Unnamed route (left side) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
13. (Central Buttress Far Left Slab Route) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
14. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
15. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
15a. Direct start to 15 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arrhythmia S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bird Battle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cardiac Arete (aka route 8) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Sweat the Small Stuff S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Excessive Force S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Excessive Tunnel Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Methodical Madness T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Sin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power Dive S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Priapism S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulchritudinous Panda T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tidal Wave (route 2) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,748 total, 20/month
Shared By: Cristina M on Jul 31, 2010
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Raven Closure Details

Description

This is possibly the best 5.7 range trad route in the area. It is #18 on the Mormon Hollow general page, but it deserves a name and description! It follows a stunning crack system through a wide variety of holds, from slopers to finger cracks to pocket side-pulls. It is definitely worth climbing. The crux is near the birch tree 2/3rds of the way up.

Location

From Tree Crack (past the big dead tree you walk through), walk up into the gully to your right to the base of a slabby boulder. Climb the boulder and traverse over the cave exit up into the crack system.

To get down, either rap off the chains or climb up and come back down a climber's trail in the gully right next to the route. Enter the cave for a fun sidetrack!

Protection

Basic trad rack: small to medium nuts and cams. There are chains at the top for rappelling and top rope, but don't top rope through them please. One bolt was loose at the time of writing.

Photos

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Great climb. Imposing-looking from the ground and a stiff challenge for the grade but lots of solid hands and feet, with varied movement and great aesthetics. Jul 3, 2014
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
 
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
 
This is a pretty good climb but past the birch tree it is pretty dirty with moss and lichen etc, needs more action to stay clean. The better climb is the direct 5.9+ with the same start. The direct line has anchors just over the top that are not visible from the ground. Sep 7, 2011