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Routes in Between Crackland and Wizard Rock

Old Dragon Ballz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 65 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jason Maurer
Page Views: 596 total, 7/month
Shared By: J1. on Jul 31, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Climb the flared crack through 2 strenuous bulges. Fingers to tight hands...it is trickier than it looks.

Location

This route is located near the Crack Land area just across the gully and faces Southwest. Once at upper Crack Land, locate the routes, Thus Us or The Enemy Within, do an about face and walk about 50 feet to the north and look up. The route is perched on a nice granite slab overlook with great views of Boulder Canyon and upper Crack Land.

Protection

Small rack up to a #1 Camalot.

Walk off to the east or set a gear anchor for toproping.

Photos

I would disagree with Leo that there are two pitches to this route. Yes, there is rock below the starting ledge, but I tried my best to find something harder than Class 4 to get up to the big ledge below where the meat of the route starts. Easy scramble in approach shoes and a pack on. Overall, the route is only 25 feet long (not 65) but fun! Jul 7, 2017
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Not knowing what the route was and missing the entry in Crack Land, we did a tiny approach pitch for this 2 pitch line. Most will consider skipping the 1st pitch. The first pitch is lichenous and has a discontinuous nature, but its upper half has a nice smidgen of crack. Perhaps it is 5.7. Oct 4, 2010
Cor
  5.10
Cor  
  5.10
Nice work, Jason!
Despite being a short route, don't be fooled.
It is like a little Vedauwoo simulator, with fun climbing. Jul 31, 2010