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East Buttress

5.7, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2 from 4 votes
FA: Jake Bender, Dave Baker, Jan 1970
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Pusch Ridge > Table Mountain
Warning Access Issue: Restrictions January 1 - April 30 DetailsDrop down

Description

From my old Summit Hut guide:

At a point 3.2 miles up the Pima Canyon trail, looking up-canyon, a white rock wall on the west side of the canyon will be noted. The route lies on the right skyline of this wall as viewed from the aforementioned point on the trail. From the trail, any one of a number of bushwhack routes lead to the base of the buttress.

#1. Attack the buttress directly rather than in a chimney to the left. Fifty feet of climbing brings you to a classic jam crack which is followed to Bender's Balcony, a huge ledge easily visible from below.

#2. Bolts protect 40 feet of climbing to a short crack. Now traverse right to a chute and climb up to a belay at a tree.

#3. A short pitch follows a left facing book to a nice ledge.

#4. A sustained though moderate pitch wanders upwards to a belay ledge. Now scramble and bushwhack up and right until a rock ramp is encountered.

#5. Ascend this ramp fourth class, then up and right to the end of the climb.

Descend via the bushwhack route indicated on the SAHC map of the Santa Catalina Mts.

Protection

Nuts up to 2.5 inches.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking down pitch 3.  The detatched looking block was successfully trundled as were other loose rocks.
[Hide Photo] Looking down pitch 3. The detatched looking block was successfully trundled as were other loose rocks.
Table Mtn summit camp.
[Hide Photo] Table Mtn summit camp.
Dolt!  These quarter inchers from 1970 did not inspire confidence but the climbing was moderate.
[Hide Photo] Dolt! These quarter inchers from 1970 did not inspire confidence but the climbing was moderate.
Pitch 2.  Robert cruising past the two bolts and one pin. Good and bad rock on this pitch.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2. Robert cruising past the two bolts and one pin. Good and bad rock on this pitch.
Climbing the splitter crack at the top of pitch 1. Wide hands, not quite fist.
[Hide Photo] Climbing the splitter crack at the top of pitch 1. Wide hands, not quite fist.
Pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

jbak x
tucson, az
  5.7
[Hide Comment] If I recall correctly, the approach up Pima Cyn to the East Buttress route is quite a bit mellower than the approach to the routes on the other side. This is a good, moderate adventure outing. The summit of Table Mtn is a cool place to visit regardless of the route chosen to get there. Jul 29, 2010
adrian korosec
tucson, az
 
[Hide Comment] We climbed this route on 10/24/10. Car to summit to car was 8.5 hours with about 2 hours of actual rock climbing. We left the main Pima Canyon trail somwhere around mile 3.5 and choose a great bushwack line up as well as down.

The climbing was fun and the rock was pretty good considering the lack of traffic. The bolts are rusted and need replacing but I don't suspect that'll get done any time soon. I recommend the route.

If your goal is to climb Table Mtn, this route would be way more fun than just hiking it and much less of an undertaking than the other routes on the peak. Take a small rack up to a blue camalot.

Thanks Dave and Jake. Oct 25, 2010
jbak x
tucson, az
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Awesome... makes me want to do it again. Oct 25, 2010