Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Ward Smith
Page Views: 1,147 total · 11/month
Shared By: Joe M. on Jul 29, 2010
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

The obvious arete on the backside of the boulder. Start sitting and move slightly left then back to the arete for a tricky move to a good hold. #5 on the beta photo.

Protection

several pads and a good spotter as the ground slopes away

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2 Comments

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tscupp
Englewood, CO
  V5
tscupp   Englewood, CO
  V5
The start is both awkward and strenuous - left handed undercling and right hand on the arete. Find some way to make you feet work for you (R heel around arete and low smear with left work for me). The final hold is the typical lincoln woods coarse granite so beware. Nov 1, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It's funny, when Ward and I were working on this, we had just come back from a month at Hueco and were climbing fairly strong after flashing a number of Hueco 8s like Better Eat Your Wheaties etc. We though this was 7 or soft 8. I wonder if we were doing something different or things changed. I seem to remember starting to the left some, really low, and moving right to the arete. 3 grade down grade :( lol Jan 22, 2012