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Mad Arab

5.10 PG13, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2 from 7 votes
FA: L. Dawson, M. Kennedy, 1974
Colorado > Independence Pass > Grotto Walls Area > Lower Grotto Wall

Description

This is the first route left of Twin Cracks. There are several interesting cruxes on this. The route starts by climbing a face to the left of Twin Cracks to a solid flake. Place gear behind the flake and make a hard move to get to a good stance (decking is a possibility if you blow that move). Continue up to the right-leaning slot through the roof that one traverses under while doing Twin Cracks. After the slot, go straight up the steep face via a hand and finger crack. The rock quality degrades slightly at the top, but there's still good gear.

This route is worth doing if others in the area are occupied, but it's not a destination climb.

Location

This is the first route to the left of Twin Cracks.

Protection

A standard rack will suffice; maybe doubles in the #0.75 to #2 Camalot sizes. We used a #3.5 and a #4 Camalot. Use the new bolted rappel anchor at the top to descend. A single 60m rope will get you back to the ground.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cranking through the leaning slot on Mad Arab.
[Hide Photo] Cranking through the leaning slot on Mad Arab.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I talked with Lou D., and he was cool if we added a fixed anchor at the top of the pitch. So as of today there is an anchor; bolts, chain and links. One 60 will get you back to the ground. Aug 1, 2010
Greg D
Here
  5.10b PG13
[Hide Comment] A good route that is often overlooked. Start with face climbing, followed by an unusual leaning slot, capped by steep fingers and hands. Lots of variety. All of the difficult moves are well protected. Save a 0.75, 1, and 2 for the final headwall. One #3 Camalot is the biggest piece you might want, although other option exist where the 3 goes. Double 2s, double 1s, and light rack will do. Sep 4, 2013
Chris Dickson
Telluride, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] You can clip the two black hangers of "Stranger than Fiction" before busting up and right towards the right-leaning OW. This seemed to take away the PG-13 factor and made it a really fun route! Jun 28, 2016
Vaughn
Colorado
  5.10- PG13
[Hide Comment] I found this route to be crumbly/chossy and generally pretty sketchy. Felt like a dangerous lead. Would be ok as a toprope, I guess. Sep 21, 2020