Avg: 4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Wilfried Colanna, Bernard Domenech, Dolby Monet - Nov 1987|
|Page Views:||1,616 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Williams on Jul 26, 2010|
|Admins:||Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon|
P1: 5.5 - 30 ft. This pitch is a free solo unless you place slings. Start off the beach, on the obvious prow of rock just left of the large detached pinnacle. It is usually best for all climbers to solo up to the ledge and rack up at the base of P2.
P2: 5.10a - 60ft. Start in the corner, using the hand sized crack and face holds. There is a large boulder wedged in the crack about half way up that appears to be very solid. It is possible to do the climb without touching it, but it probably bumps the grade up to a .10b. Continue up to the belay on the block between the main wall and the detached pillar.
P3: 5.10c/d - 40ft. Traverse out and left on tiny sharp holds. This might feel hard for the grade. Head up on larger holds to the hanging belay below a roof. You could probably link all of the first three pitches together but the leader will hang for a while belaying.
P4: 5.11a - 70ft. This is a one move wonder. Climb up and right, out of the roof, and then climb the face in a right facing dihedral. Slopey holds make up the crux. Belay at the GIANT ledge.
P5: 5.10b - 50ft. This is the hero pitch. Climb out 200 feet over the beach on the biggest jugs you will ever pull on. Lower back to the ledge, get a picture, and have your partner toss you the rope and pull back to the belay. Pull the rope and let your partner lead.
Descent: You can do one 60 meter rappel from the giant ledge to the beach. If you only take one rope, go from the giant ledge to the top of P2 between the pinnacle and the main wall, and then a 2nd rap to the beach. Run down the beach away from the wall when you pull the rope or else it will get stuck up on P2 somewhere.