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Routes in Friendship 7 Wall

Every Which Way But Loose S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Friendship Seven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left of Seven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Trash Can T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Al Simons
Page Views: 796 total, 9/month
Shared By: allen simons on Jul 25, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This has cruxes at bolts 5 through 7 and the upper slab. This route is fun, but heed the name. Avoid the loose stuff on the face and at the overhang traverse right at the first bolt past the first belay. I wanted this route to go right up the overhang, but there is a lot of "bombay crap" in the overhang. Deepest thoughts...hummmmn...this is a serious undertaking for a sport route due to the loose nature of the rock. Helmets are advised for the belayer as well as the climber.

Location

This is in Big Thompson Canyon, in the Narrows, 1.3 miles west of the siphon tube. Start as for the Trash Can, clip the first bolt and gain the left face. Face climb past 7 bolts (9+/10a) to a two chain belay. 2nd pitch. Stem across right (long sling-check out the action photo) under the loose roof and on to the left wall of the trash can, up past 4 more bolts and a slab to a two chain anchor.

Protection

Can be done in one long pitch, that's how I did it on the FA (I clipped the first bolt of the second pitch and reached back and unclipped the quickdraw that was at the first belay-see action photo). 7 bolts to a 2 chain belay, 5 bolts on the second pitch to a 2 chain belay. Long sling (4-5 feet) for the first bolt past the first belay or the rope drag will kill ya.

To get down, use a two rope rap from the top chains or one rope to the first belay, (getting under the overhang to the chains takes some trickery if you do the one rope thing). Keep the rope right into the Trash Can or it can get hung up.

Photos

allen simons  
 
Pat, good to hear from you. Glad you liked the climb. Another fun 5.9 is Beeline Highway if you give it a go~! Jun 26, 2017
Patrick Ackerson
Loveland, CO
Patrick Ackerson   Loveland, CO
Hey Al, did this climb today. Really liked the layback nature though you wouldn't see it from the ground and spot on for the grade. Jun 6, 2017
allen simons  
 
Definitely easier than LO-Seven. More rest so you don't get the pump. Oct 2, 2010
Eric Winne
  5.9-
Eric Winne  
  5.9-
Fun climbing. Loose, but that's what we expect in The Narrows. Seems much easier than Left of Seven. Seems soft .9. Sep 29, 2010
allen simons  
 
Ha, no road cones needed. How did the climb go for ya? Sep 16, 2010