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Routes in Green Slab Wall

Body Surfing V3 6A
Cracked Lips V2 5+
Dugout, The V2 5+
Green Dragon V5 6C
Green Slab V1 5 R
Left Hand of Darkness V6 7A
Pocket Problem V3 6A
Standout, The V3 6A
Startup, The V4 6B
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Type: Boulder, Alpine, 20 ft
FA: maybe me?
Page Views: 736 total · 7/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Jul 22, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Fragile Alpine Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

While most of the slabs here are 5.9 highball affairs, this route is quite a bit harder and is a great challenge for anyone who enjoys using their feet and finds themselves caught up in the land of overhangs. Would probably be V3 at Lumpy or Flagstaff, the V5 rating seems more in line with Chaos style ratings.

The route is a little licheny and committing as well, but the movement is stellar and quality is beautiful, a great little problem. I don't know if this has been done before, the name is just a placeholder.

Location

On the left side of the Green Slab Wall is a low roof, about a foot wide, sticking out of the wall. This roof forms a vague upside-down A-frame towards its left. Right on the apex of the A are some good underclings below the roof, the route starts here. Start on the underclings and move straight up into a short, shallow, left-facing dihedral on crimps and slabby feet that always seem to angle the wrong way. Avoid the large foothold five feet to the right. The crux involves a strenuous leg press to get established above the lip of the overhang, some tricky climbing guards the larger holds up top as well. A great slab problem!

Protection

Pads, several.

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