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Routes in The Meadows

Aquaman S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Atomic Cafe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Barter Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blockade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cat Cave T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chocolate Rocket S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Creek Show S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dying Time T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Increasing Grade, The TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Interceptor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Over the Sea to the Sky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shit for Brains S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Smashing Hornets S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Taco Time S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tar Baby S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Teabag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watered Down TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcome to Sniveldome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
schnoz , The V1-2 5
Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: Gardner Hui & Kevin Earls on 6-Jun-2010
Page Views: 225 total, 3/month
Shared By: Gardner Hui on Jul 21, 2010
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Face climb at 30-degree traverse left towards an arete that is 7ft to the right of Taco Time's top anchor. The climb start easy 5.4, then becomes 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, etc. till at the arete 5.9. Thus the name of the route. There's a jug on top of the arete -- reach to it is the crux. Top off from the jug or traverse left to the double-bolt top anchor of Taco Time. The route is full of lichen and absolutely no chalk mark -- indication of no traffic so far. To top belay or top rope, try not to use the trees 20-30 ft back from the edge. There's a rock horn on the ground 15 ft back that you can loop you rope on it.

Location

First locate Taco Time -- it start at the left side of a boulder with a line of bolts going up. Walk around the boulder. The Increasing Grade start from the right side of the boulder. There's a big and a small tree there. Start right of the trees as well to prevent damaging them.

Either rap down the double-bolt top anchor from Taco Time, or hike down from the left side of the wall.

Protection

So far we (Gardner Hui and Kevin Earl) only top roped the route. There's hardly places for the pros. We'll go back to check when we have times.

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