Type: Boulder, 10 ft (3 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,138 total · 17/month
Shared By: tscupp on Jul 20, 2010
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


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Access Issue: As of May 9th the temporary closing due to covid-19 of Lincoln Woods and some Rhode Island state parks has been lifted. There currently is reduced parking to keep the visitor numbers down and an earlier closing time of 6 pm. Visit riparks.com/ for more information Details

Description

One of the many link ups at the warm up cave. Start on Cave Roof and make the crux moves to establish yourself on the holds above the bulge. Then make a tough gaston right to the axe head hold of New Direction. Strenuously match this hold and finish on New Direction (or go up and right as for Jacked Bagel for a harder finish). Your obliques may be sore after a few tries on this.

I am not quite sure that this is the correct name but this is according to the latest edition of New England Bouldering. It is listed as v7 but v5+ or v6- feels more accurate to me since it feels like a link of two v3s via a v4 gaston and match.

Location

Starts of Cave Roof and finishes on New direction.

Protection

Pad or two, traverses a bit but the hardest move feels like the match to me so setting one pad under new direction should suffice.

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