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Routes in Wild Cat Wall

Cat Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Colonade T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fire Stone T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Keel Hauled T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mark's Crack (Left) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhythm and Sorrow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rock the Red Bago T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Street Walking Cheetah T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Thundercats T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wild Confusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA: Dale Fleshman and Jim Yoder August 2004 FFA: Michael Roy and Sam Sluys July 2010
Page Views: 800 total · 8/month
Shared By: MichaelR on Jul 19, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route has been a long time in the making. Story has it Andy Fitz installed the anchors back in the early 90's and then lost interest. Fast forward a few years to 2004 when Dale Fleshman and JIm Yoder led the rig calling it 5.10b/C2. The line finally saw an attempt but once again was dismissed. It is now a fully equipped route ready for laps! I can't believe it took this long for the route to see a proper send. I looked long and hard at the top hoping it would not need bolts but after serious consideration and consultation I decided to get the drill. It really is a good route and should get better with traffic. The climbing starts with some generic crack climbing to a ledge (same one as wildcat). From here gain the finger crack (which protects well with small to medium nuts) and climb this to the horizontal break. Once you leave the horizontal break get set for the bolted portion of the climb which involves shallow stemming, smears and edge work with your feet while crimping edges, pulling on the arete and using the crack (when you can) for your hands. Fun!

Location

Crack to the right of Iron Oxide and the left of Wildcat.

Protection

4 bolts and Gear to .75 inches with a red camelot (or similar sized unit) for the bottom will get you to the chains. Heavy in the small to medium nuts.

Photos

MichaelR
  5.12-
MichaelR  
  5.12-
I guess the route name has to do with the fact that a Fire Stone tire was found at the base and not the color of the rock. Jul 20, 2010
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
Good to know a bolt was added at the top, I considered leading this on RP, crack isn't all that good of rock up there though...I liked the use of my legs too much to give her a go=) Sep 1, 2011

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