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Routes in I) The Amphitheater
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5.9, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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AMS S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chocolate Chicken Pot Pie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cuba and Nova's Block Party S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dribble Glass S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fear of the Dark S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mas y Mas Moss S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mr. Dubious S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nendo Dango S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nguvu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Poligrip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Reprieve S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Supramanya S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Jason Halladay, June 2010 |
| Page Views: | 453 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Jul 19, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Access Issue: April 26, 2022 - Jemez Mountains closure order
Details
On April 26th, 2022, the Santa Fe National Forest issued a closure order, fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO… , of much of the Jemez Mountains public land due to the ongoing Cerro Pelado wildfire. The closure order is effective immediately and in force until December 31st, 2022 or until rescinded earlier. This closure includes nearly all the climbing areas listed in here on MP in the Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley.
The lowdown
Supramanya strikes hard right from the start with a sharp but positive mono boulder problem past the first bolt. After that, it's more moderate climbing as the venom sinks in to a rest on a gigantic ledge after the [oddly placed] fifth bolt.
From the ledge, clip the bolt off to the left but move well to the right to find good holds to get established on the upper headwall. Snake your way back left towards the arete on steepening but juggy terrain to grab the killer black tufa-like handrail. Slither your way up sneaky climbing to the anchor.
The jury is still out on the difficulty. Not as sustained as Nguvu.
From the ledge, clip the bolt off to the left but move well to the right to find good holds to get established on the upper headwall. Snake your way back left towards the arete on steepening but juggy terrain to grab the killer black tufa-like handrail. Slither your way up sneaky climbing to the anchor.
The jury is still out on the difficulty. Not as sustained as Nguvu.
How do I locate this rig?
Just right of the shared start for Nguvu and Fear of the Dark. The first bolt might appear high but a good undercling makes for good clipping and since the crux is arguably at the first bolt, it's nice to have it up there a bit.
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