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Routes in c. Moe (closure) to Harvest Moon

Ambien Knights T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Animal Farm T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
As the Cliff Turns T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
BM T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beauty and the Skink T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Boston Tree Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bush League T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Lite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
By the Toe, direct start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Catnip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cherokee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coyote Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Day Tripper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Quacks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easter Time Too T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elf Stone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giddah! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Good Friday Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gouda Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunks Burghers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Halfbeak T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Honky Tonk Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Interiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left meets Right T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Moxie T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Old and Mossy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Way or Another T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Orc Stone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Raven and the Cat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Route Awakening T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Saving Face T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Saving Grace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Scuttlebutt T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Serfs' Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shtick It T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Slab Shtick TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spic and Span T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Summer Breeze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Whet Stone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wolf and the Swine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Woolly Clam Taco T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wrong Place, Right Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
You're in the wrong place, my friend T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zachariah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Gary Terpening and Joe Bridges 1989
Page Views: 950 total, 11/month
Shared By: Anthony Baraff on Jul 19, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Start the same as Easter Time Too, with hands 10 feet up traverse left to the small 3 foot high left facing corner capped by a pebble covered overhang, follow the crack up and right to another small left facing corner, go up passing a frisbee-sized area of orange rock, move up and left to a ledge before traversing left to the Day Tripper oak tree rap station.

Location

Same as Easter Time Too.

Protection

I toproped the route belayed from a rope set up on the belay tree for Day Tripper with a substantial directional anchor set up 20 feet right of the belay tree. The gear looks difficult to place and consists largely of micro nuts with a few pebbly horizontals available for more substantial gear. This looks like a scary lead with little protection available to prevent ground fall until after climbing through 15 feet of 5.9 territory.

Photos

SethG  
If you do this route as described above (i.e., going up ten feet before moving left) it may be protected and a little easier-- but if you want to you can keep it completely independent of Easter Time Too, there is a good hard move on small sharp crimps with poor feet to get up to the small corner beneath the crux. The problem is that there's no gear for this hard low move. I think you could protect it by climbing up and placing pro on Easter Time Too, then climbing down and starting over, doing the moves on WCT. May 8, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
We TR'd after leading Eastertime too. On TR, it felt soft for a 10. Some nice technical moves for this shorty. Apr 22, 2014
Pawel Janowski   WA
 
Is this a different climb from "Earth Girls Are Easy" in Todd Swain's guide? From description seems to be the same except that Swain has you traverse to the Eastertime anchors at the top. May 6, 2013
Its been a few years, but I remember being pretty happy with the brassies that I got in on this. There were 3 or 4 of them along the way, all pretty good. Feb 20, 2012
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b/c R
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b/c R
I led this a while back and have not tried to repeat it. There's a good yellow alien at your feet for the first hard move, then 20 or so feet of difficult climbing "protected" some really manky c3s in a shallow flare and very small brassies. Feb 11, 2012