Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV,
Avg: 3.2 from 6
FA: Jeff Jackson, David Rasmussen, Josh Smith
> Alpine Rock
> Capitol Peak
Approach as for the standard Northwest Buttress
P1. The first pitch begins directly off the top of the talus cone (in contrast to the NW Butt which begins well to the left). Take the obvious crack/dihedral to a belay below the roof (5.10, 35 meters).
P2. Pitch two climbs up and right, following discontinuous cracks (5.9+, 30 meters).
P3. Pitch three goes right 15 feet from the belay to a crack. Follow the crack to a ledge (5.8, 30 meters).
P4. Pitch 4 traverses straight left along a horizontal crack, then turns up and climbs to the 4th class bowl below the Unicorn Spire (5.8, 30 meters).
P5. Follow the standard Northwest Buttress
route to the summit.
This has excellent rock similar to the first pitch on the standard Northwest Buttress
, but this adds three more pitches of technical climbing. See the comments on the standard Northwest Buttress
for warnings about loose rock up high. Nothing too dire. All in all, this is a very enjoyable outing unless you get hosed by the weather.
You basically dead-end into this route after climbing the talus cone. You can see a bolt on the first pitch that protects moves into the dihedral. The route starts approximately 200 feet right of the Northwest Buttress
route and follows a very obvious system of corners and cracks.
Single set of cams to 2 inch (#2 Camalot) including small sizes (TCUs or C3s) and a good selection of nuts including brass or steel. Take a bunch of shoulder-length slings to help with drag.
Fixed gear: Some fixed knife blades. Pitch 1 has one bolt. Pitch 2 has two bolts.
Anchors consist of two bolts on Pitch 1, a bolt and nut placement on Pitch 2, a bolt and nut placement on Pitch 3, and two bolts on Pitch 4.
Total bolt count: 9. Total protection bolts: 3.
You can bail at any point with a 60 meter rope (though you'll need leave two nuts and downclimb easy rock at the bottom of Pitch 1).
NW Buttress and Early Times Wall.
The first pitch follows the corner system on the right of the photo.
Early Time topo.