Avg: 3.1 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Jeff Jackson, David Rasmussen, Josh Smith|
|Page Views:||7,502 total · 57/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Jackson on Jul 19, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
P1. The first pitch begins directly off the top of the talus cone (in contrast to the NW Butt which begins well to the left). Take the obvious crack/dihedral to a belay below the roof (5.10, 35 meters).
P2. Pitch two climbs up and right, following discontinuous cracks (5.9+, 30 meters).
P3. Pitch three goes right 15 feet from the belay to a crack. Follow the crack to a ledge (5.8, 30 meters).
P4. Pitch 4 traverses straight left along a horizontal crack, then turns up and climbs to the 4th class bowl below the Unicorn Spire (5.8, 30 meters).
P5. Follow the standard Northwest Buttress route to the summit.
This has excellent rock similar to the first pitch on the standard Northwest Buttress, but this adds three more pitches of technical climbing. See the comments on the standard Northwest Buttress for warnings about loose rock up high. Nothing too dire. All in all, this is a very enjoyable outing unless you get hosed by the weather.
Fixed gear: Some fixed knife blades. Pitch 1 has one bolt. Pitch 2 has two bolts.
Anchors consist of two bolts on Pitch 1, a bolt and nut placement on Pitch 2, a bolt and nut placement on Pitch 3, and two bolts on Pitch 4.
Total bolt count: 9. Total protection bolts: 3.
You can bail at any point with a 60 meter rope (though you'll need leave two nuts and downclimb easy rock at the bottom of Pitch 1).