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Craig's Crack

5.7, Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.8 from 18 votes
FA: EH/JP 1971
Maine > -Clifton Crags > Parks Pond Bluff > c. Main Face

Description

Mega classic route. Great slab climbing leads to a crack/corner and a bolt anchor on a ledge. Perfect to cruise on a hot summer day. There is a slight runout on the short slab between the two cracks.

For a 2nd Pitch, finish up the face to the roof, then either finish on the Dike Route out left or follow the wide crack.

Location

This route starts in the middle of the main face. Traverse right to start about 20' to reach the small crack, then head up.

Protection

Small to finger size nuts or cams

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The line
[Hide Photo] The line
Just left of Craig's crack <br> Liz Henson photo
[Hide Photo] Just left of Craig's crack Liz Henson photo
looking down from the bolt anchors halfway up.
[Hide Photo] looking down from the bolt anchors halfway up.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

maineah
Maine
 
[Hide Comment] Craig's crack is the first pitch described. It goes at 5.5R. The roof is the upper portion of Black Tide (5.7X). Mar 14, 2012
Anthony Codega
Maine
  5.5 R
[Hide Comment] The clump of trees that this route starts next to (just next to the belayer in the photo) have uprooted and fallen over. The route now has a large, convenient, white spot where the trees used to be marking the start. Jun 18, 2012
Travis Vicary
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] The black water streak to the right of Craig's Crack (Black Tide) is now bolted...no longer 5.7X Dec 16, 2015