[Hide Comment] Hard and bouldery. A letter grade or two harder than Monster Buck, but not quite as sustained. Concrats to Eric R, Andy B, and Brent S, who all sent this climb on a Friday sending spree.
Great thanks to Geir for working out the beta for us at the crux. Sep 26, 2010

[Hide Comment] this climb is very fun to figure out. even with the beta worked out the climbing is stiff and requires some endurance to get through. the ending is great! Oct 2, 2010

[Hide Comment] Concrats to Lemmon's new hard dude, Matt who onsighted this climb as an excited audience cheered him on. May 28, 2011

[Hide Comment] Way to go Matt! Consider me impressed. Well done. May 29, 2011

[Hide Comment] Terrific Matt!!!! May 29, 2011

[Hide Comment] The third bolt is sketchy and could result in a ground fall without an attentive belayer. The bolting is fine; just the nature of the climb. Jul 7, 2012

[Hide Comment] We found out that with a good belayer, you can take a fall while trying to clip the third bolt, launch your belayer of the ground, and still not deck. Cliff thanks for the awesome catch today. Sep 6, 2012

[Hide Comment] Tested the third bolt falls, found them safe enough to send after a couple tries. The strong, sustained boulder start made for a really fun problem. May 22, 2022

[Hide Comment] Someone snuck a boulder problem into a nice 5.11 rock climb! Oct 14, 2022

[Hide Comment] Warning, spray alert...

Edit: have sent now, opinion below is solidified.

I think it's fun to break down the grade using Darth Grader. IMHO the intro boulder problem (start to the good crystal sidepull you clip the 3rd bolt from) would get Moon Board 6B (soft). Starting from the clipping hold for bolt 3, I think the route would get 6c+ (hard). Darth Grader gives 7b+ (soft) which I think it spot on. In YDS, V4- into 11c with no rest = 12b (soft).

As of 5/2024 the route has permadraws on bolts 2 - 4, so you only need a few extra. It also gets shade almost all day because of trees and is easy to TR. So, it's a great project at the grade.

Lastly, if you are starved for beta, watch the Jimbo film ( youtu.be/y9cVstRv5k8?si=Mct…) - taller folks can do fewer moves but you can get a lot from Sarah's sequence. May 29, 2024

[Hide Comment] Bolts moved and upgraded. While working this route the past few weeks I noticed the 3rd bolt clip is a bit dicey. Also if you fall or drop onto the second bolt you often smash into your belayer. (I have a bruised rib and my partner has a bruised thigh) To alleviate these issues, I put a longer chain draw on the third bolt, which should reduce the chance of hitting the deck if you fall while clipping. I moved the second bolt a little right and the first bolt left. Now, if you clip the first and second you are less likely to slam into your belayer. The initial placements were because I climbed straight up then right to the crystal band rather than right then up to the crystal band which seems to be the preferred beta now. Jun 20, 2024