Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jonathan Siegrist, July, 2010
Page Views: 1,164 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Jul 16, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Not the famed Oldsmobile, but any pirates weapon of choice. This bouldery route stands on a pillar of its own, to the left of the other established climbs. Scramble up to a nice belay ledge and begin your journey with some mild, face climbing and a moderately challenging, 3 foot roof. Cruise up some more nice, face climbing before clipping your first draw in the beautiful, steepening bulge. From here, a bouldery series of lock-offs between small grips takes you to the final bolt.

Location

Look to the free-standing pillar on the climber's left.

Protection

9 draws to a fixed anchor.

Photos

I broke a key crimp at the start of the headwall--sorry. The route still goes, however, just a touch harder, and a bit reachy. Jul 13, 2011
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Fantastic route with a brilliant, sustained upper headwall on small but positive holds when the wall steepens. Be sure to take in the views of Long's Peak at 3/4 height with a no hands rest with your back to the wall, conveniently right before the hard upper bits.... Aug 1, 2015