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Routes in Mountain Light Wall

El Duderino T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Pillar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocknobbit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rude Awakening T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
S-Knobbish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snowblind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twisted Transistor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann ('04)
Page Views: 432 total, 5/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jul 16, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a fun slab and lieback climb to warm up on. The rock quality also seems to be a bit better than most of the routes on Mountain Light Wall which is a good thing because the crux is pure friction climbing.

Start on a crack system that leads to a small ledge 50 feet up. If there is a snowcone at the base you can traverse in from the left on 5.6 slab. From the ledge take the flake up and left until it ends. Slab climb past two bolts to reach another flake which arches back right to a 2 bolt rap anchor.

Rappel to the ground with 2 ropes. With one 70m rope you can rappel to some ledges and gully off right, but going this way can be difficult if there is snow at the base.

Location

Located on the low-angle apron near the right end of the wall.

Protection

1 set of nuts and a single set of cams to 2".

Photos

Yesterday we added a third pro bolt to the slab, and upgraded the second bolt to 3/8" (1/4" originally). We'd intended to add that 3rd bolt for years, just hadn't had the chance! Jun 25, 2014