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Routes in Jastrzebia Turnia

Kancik S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ryska Czernera T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: K.Glazek, K.Sokolowski 69 FFA: G.Nitka 80's
Page Views: 412 total, 5/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Jul 14, 2010

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One of the best 5.7 sport pitches anywhere. There really are no difficult moves, but you won't know that from looking at it. The route follows the lower angle side of a beautiful arete. Bolts are just close enough to make it safe, but far and sketchy (old spinners) enough to keep it interesting. The good holds force you onto the arete for the most exposure you could experience in 60 feet of climbing...


On the North side of the rock, look for a giant open book that separates two towers. This route starts right there and follows the bolts up the arete on the right.


7 bolts and a modern anchor
A couple shoulder length slings are helpful for the last two bolts.