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Routes in The Amphitheater

5.9, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
AMS S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chocolate Chicken Pot Pie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cuba and Nova's Block Party S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dribble Glass S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fear of the Dark S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mas y Mas Moss S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Dubious S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nendo Dango S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Nguvu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Poligrip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Reprieve S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Supramanya S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 49 ft
FA: [[14595]], July 2010.
Page Views: 68 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jul 13, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Ridiculous bilingual alliteration or very mossy slab climbing? It's both. If you thought Green Thumb needed more brushing, wait until you get on this one. Those that demand meticulously cleaned and brushed routes need not apply.

Make some initial balancy moves on, yes, you guessed it, mossy and lichen-covered slab past a few bolts leading into a steeper bit of climbing. Use good holds up to some killer underclings beneath the crux roof/bluge to a good stance to clip the sixth bolt.

Figure out how to pull the roof. To keep this section at 5.10, use the arete well to the right but it may go straight once the upper slab cleans up but will be quite a bit more difficult.

Finish on yet more mossy slab climbing to the anchors. On your way down kick off as much lichen and moss as you can or, better yet, take yer brush and get busy.

I've spent nearly a couple of hours brushing this down. Use the holds I've brushed and you'll be fine. I do think it'll be a fun line once it cleans up a bit.

Location

The left most route at the Amphitheater. Around the corner to the left of Fear of the Dark

Protection

7 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with biners.

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