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Routes in The Butcher's Hand

Blood Sausage S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gilson Route on Butcher's Hand T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Chris Pelczarski, July 13, 2010
Page Views: 157 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tater Tot on Jul 13, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This route climbs an awesomely aesthetic line direct up the south face on some extremely unique features. It's a real power piece - there are few rests on this short but tough little fella! The real climbing begins on the large pedestal, and any way you get to that point is fine. Staying left of the bolts, climb direct through the huecos and crystals to the summit. This route is short, wild, exposed, aesthetic, and fun!

Do not bail left onto the west face up the easy crystal trough at the 4th bolt - continue direct up the face!

Location

See route description for The Butcher's Hand. Once you have passed under the large chockstone tunnel, directly ahead of you will be the south face of The Butcher's Hand, which when viewed from this angle looks like a needles style spire. The route climbs direct up this face.

Protection

Four bolts and an anchor with two chains.

Route can easily be top roped by climbing the Gilson Route.

Photos

Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
  5.11b
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
  5.11b
The belay stance is awful but the climbing is fun. The texture of this pillar tore my skin up!! Oct 9, 2017
Jimmy D
Rapid City
  5.11b
Jimmy D   Rapid City
  5.11b
Pretty dirty, but worth doing if your looking for a unique climb with a fantastic summit. Big moves on big holds, super physical and fun. Aug 28, 2015
Tater Tot
Custer, SD
 
Tater Tot   Custer, SD
 
Thanks Andy - what did you think about the difficulty rating? Jul 28, 2010
Andy Busse
Rapid City, SD
Andy Busse   Rapid City, SD  
Nice Work Jul 23, 2010