Avg: 1.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 1400 ft (424 m), 18 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||July 11, 2010 Dylan Connelly & Chris Stolz|
|Page Views:||688 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||harihari on Jul 13, 2010|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
The route has excellent pro, a wide variety of climbing (from finger-to-hand cracks, a short wide crack, a slab traverse, etc), some wild positions and a cool finish.
It is possible to rappel the route from P12 down. From the top of P2, one can rap 30m to a station, and from there 25m to the ground.
P1: Climb a v-slot or arete to right of V slot. Then either straight up (10d bolts and gear) or up and slightly right (11b gear) to a bolt and right to belay.
P2: Up and right to a flake-crack, up and right, then down and right past bolts. 5.9
P3: MONEY! Awesome 30m of fingers to hands. 5.11b bomber gear
P4: MONEY! Hands to fists. 5.10c bomber gear.
P5: Up the dihedral (5.12d or 5.9 A0) past bolts.
P6: Traverse 30 right past bolts on the wildly exposed Green Line ledge 5.5
P7: MONEY! Up and left through the leaning corner. Often wet 5.12
P6 and P7 bypass: traverse halfway along the Green Line Ledge (5.5) then up the bolt ladder to the top of P7
P8: Do an awkward set of moves past a few bolts, a tree and some gear placements, mantle, then up and left past bolts (5.10d). OR head left after tree and follow a finger crack and other moves up to station (5.11a)
P9: Up the nice corner 5.9
P10: Scramble up and right past bolts and brush 5.5
P11: MONEY! Up the widening corner past a few bolts. An 11+ variation heads right about 10m up 5.10d
P12: Go to blocks on right side of ledge, then up past bolts and gear. 5.10a
P13: Straight up to under roof, then left past bolts to a short crack. Belay on tree. 5.10b
Walk left about 30 m on forested ledge.
P14: Follow a blocky right-trending crack to harder moves off bolts past a short roof. 5.10d
P15: MONEY! Up the yellwo flake, then undercling in a cool position into the base of the massive V-slot 5.8
P16: MONEY MONEY! Up the 5.3 offwidth for 10m past one bolt, then stem and jam the awesome steepening V-slot hand and fist crack to a ledge. Move up and slightly left past ledge to station. 5.10c or feels harder if you didn't bring enough water
P17: Step to right side of ledge, and wander up for two pitches on either slabs with occasional bolts, trees and gear, OR head up and slightly left through a gnarly ugly 4th class bypass to top of 2nd summit. The route tops out on fairly close to Ultimate Everything.