Type: Trad, Aid, 1400 ft, 18 pitches, Grade IV
FA: July 11, 2010 Dylan Connelly & Chris Stolz
Page Views: 270 total · 3/month
Shared By: harihari on Jul 13, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


La Gota Fría is a long mostly free route on the Deputy Wall, on the Squamish Chief. The route features mostly gear climbing, with a few bolts on some pitches, two bolt ladders (or free at 12+) and entirely bolted belays (except one which is a tree). Pro is plentiful and bomber.

The route has excellent pro, a wide variety of climbing (from finger-to-hand cracks, a short wide crack, a slab traverse, etc), some wild positions and a cool finish.

It is possible to rappel the route from P12 down. From the top of P2, one can rap 30m to a station, and from there 25m to the ground.

P1: Climb a v-slot or arete to right of V slot. Then either straight up (10d bolts and gear) or up and slightly right (11b gear) to a bolt and right to belay.

P2: Up and right to a flake-crack, up and right, then down and right past bolts. 5.9

P3: MONEY! Awesome 30m of fingers to hands. 5.11b bomber gear

P4: MONEY! Hands to fists. 5.10c bomber gear.

P5: Up the dihedral (5.12d or 5.9 A0) past bolts.

P6: Traverse 30 right past bolts on the wildly exposed Green Line ledge 5.5

P7: MONEY! Up and left through the leaning corner. Often wet 5.12

P6 and P7 bypass: traverse halfway along the Green Line Ledge (5.5) then up the bolt ladder to the top of P7

P8: Do an awkward set of moves past a few bolts, a tree and some gear placements, mantle, then up and left past bolts (5.10d). OR head left after tree and follow a finger crack and other moves up to station (5.11a)

P9: Up the nice corner 5.9

P10: Scramble up and right past bolts and brush 5.5

P11: MONEY! Up the widening corner past a few bolts. An 11+ variation heads right about 10m up 5.10d

P12: Go to blocks on right side of ledge, then up past bolts and gear. 5.10a

P13: Straight up to under roof, then left past bolts to a short crack. Belay on tree. 5.10b

Walk left about 30 m on forested ledge.

P14: Follow a blocky right-trending crack to harder moves off bolts past a short roof. 5.10d

P15: MONEY! Up the yellwo flake, then undercling in a cool position into the base of the massive V-slot 5.8

P16: MONEY MONEY! Up the 5.3 offwidth for 10m past one bolt, then stem and jam the awesome steepening V-slot hand and fist crack to a ledge. Move up and slightly left past ledge to station. 5.10c or feels harder if you didn't bring enough water

P17: Step to right side of ledge, and wander up for two pitches on either slabs with occasional bolts, trees and gear, OR head up and slightly left through a gnarly ugly 4th class bypass to top of 2nd summit. The route tops out on fairly close to Ultimate Everything.


The route begins at a clean obvious v-groove which (as of summer 2010) has a fixed blue line hanging off it. Follow the directions for accessing the Deputy Wall.


60 m rope
2x Camalots from .3 to #3
1x #4 and #5 Camalot
1-2x blue alien/tcu or equivalent
extra draws and slings for ladders
med + small nuts


Did this last summer (but didn't free whole thing). Pretty good. There are a couple crap pitches but those are fast and easy. Pitch 3 is awesome. The big V at the end is really good. It will be great once more traffic gets on it.

The pitch above the big left forest traverse might be harder than 10d. Nov 14, 2010