This is now the route that takes you highest up on the cliff. It has some really fun and exciting moves, great exposure, views and rock quality. It is basically an extension or second pitch to Abbey Normal 5.10c.
From the Abbey Normal anchors climb the very easy slab to the first bolt of Bridge (its about 20-25 feet to the bolt but maybe 5.1). From there climb up the corner under the roof, at the 3rd bolt make a really fun couple of moves out left and over the roof. Follow 3 more bolts up the low angle face to a tricky finish on small holds. Mantel the sloping ledge and take in the view, its amazing up there.
Be careful of a loose block above and left of the anchor.
I'd toss it down but i dont want to ruin the bolts on routes below.
Continuing up from the anchors of Abbey Normal.
If you are linking the 2 pitches:
-i suggest long runners on the first 2 bolts of Bridge (that makes it run really smooth).
-you will need a 70m rope to get back to the ground.
-or you can rap it with 2 ropes.
-or you can lower to Abbey's anchor and then from there to the ground.
-or what ever else you come up with.
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
I first led the route ground up on gear (bad gear for the most part) digging through lichen to find holds... i did the same roof crux but took an easier finish on that run... after jakob followed me up we rapped in, giving it a really good cleaning and bolted it including a more direct and harder finish... Jul 13, 2010
New England
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
yeah it looks like a good way to get over there though it might still involve some funky tricks to get to your climbs it might be better than the gully climb...
i plan to explore Summit Crag in more detail sometime soon... including your routes up there, im psyched on that place... Jul 13, 2010
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
Sudbury MA / Bar Harbor ME