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Routes in Main Wall

Bloody Bones S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bolting Elvis's S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Case Study S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cohiba S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crank Call S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Evil Party Vortex S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Guilty Pleasures S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Natural Prozac S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psycho Friends S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
To Air is Human S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: FA Chris Hahn, EB Jim Steagall
Page Views: 594 total · 6/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jul 12, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This burly crack climb might feel difficult for the grade if you only face climb. Head up the right facing dihedral with a combination of jams and liebacks. At the corner some good footholds provide a nice rest before the crux traverse under the roof. Extending the draws under the roof will make the final moves easier. Probably best to TR this one to clean it.

"Psycho Friend Network" continuous across the roof to the anchors for Guilty Pleasures for 12b credit, have fun cleaning this one.

Location

In the center of Main Wall. Look for the right facing right leaning dihedral, capped by a large roof.

Protection

9 Bolts to Anchors. For rope drag consider backcleaning the first bolt and extend the 3 bolts under the roof with long slings. A short draw on the last bolt keeps the rope from rubbing on the sharp corner of the roof.

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