Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,303 total · 22/month
Shared By: Tristan Burnham on Jul 12, 2010
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

The crack inside the chimney on the right side of the top rope wall. The chimney is off. The Crux is the start with tricky feet then it gets easy and fun, then top out on a flake and head into a slab boulder problem.

Location

On the ride side of the TR wall inside the chimeny.

Protection

You can set up a TR with some cams and a big sling.

Or lead with a normal rack. If you lead it, its kidna PG 13 because after the crack there is a slabby part where you could deck onto a flake/ledge, but you can put pro in part way up so it isn't to bad.

Photos

Jeff M
Los Angeles, CA
 
Jeff M   Los Angeles, CA
 
I got sucked into the chimney trying to climb this. Awkward and chossy rock with minimal pro. Not fun... Nov 6, 2017
Justin Ling
Los Angeles, CA
  5.7 PG13
Justin Ling   Los Angeles, CA
  5.7 PG13
Super fun crack climb, as good as the few moderates I've done in red rock. Route isn't visible from when looking at the middle of top tope wall. Gotta walk into the chimney to find it and be rewarded with a really nice curving hand crack that starts from the ground. Eats up 1s and 2s for the first half. Crack is steep, with committing hand and foot jams, but there are a couple breaks including a basketball size chockstone mid way up for a quick rest. No need to use the chimney.

Second half is tough to protect as the flake is very thin. After mantling onto the flake, I was not sure whether to go straight up or traverse right. I opted to go right and finish up the the slab using arette for hands. still runout and tricky, with only one piece of protection for 25 ft. maybe 10 ft from the top. Build a natural anchor. Apr 22, 2018