Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Eric Zchiesche, Tom McMillan
Page Views: 1,104 total · 11/month
Shared By: Alexander Blum on Jul 12, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Look for a short, steep, hand crack a few hundred feet before VD, uphill in a large recessed area. The actual 'hand crack' is about 20 feet off the deck. The whole route is steep and juggy, and would be excellent if the rock did not deteriorate in a big way as you get closer to the top of the cliff.

Easiest descent traverses up and right to a fixed lowering station (slings and biners around a tree). This brings you down directly over an excellent 5.8 warm up.

Location

North End

Protection

Light rack to #3 Camalot.

Photos

Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.10b/c
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
  5.10b/c
Can you provide some more specifics about the 5.8 warm up you mentioned? Is it a named route listed here or in one of the area guides? The Nevermore chimney?

Follow-up: Seems the 5.8 "Juggerhead" that Eddie posted is the route in question. Will check it out soon! Nov 9, 2010
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
  5.10a/b
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
  5.10a/b
The warm up I mentioned isn't listed in any guide I have seen. It is directly to the right of Juggernaut-maybe 15 feet or so. Juggernaut is directly up a steep hill between the two main North End cliffs and has a part to miss vertical crack in the middle. Jan 7, 2011
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.10b/c
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
  5.10b/c
Having been up this a few times now, I can attest that there are a couple of good horizontals that can be used to set up anchors for TR near the top. The tree options on top are not very good.

To get down you have to traverse to the decent sized tree over Juggerhead about 30 feet to the right. You could probably do this by mantling onto the dirt ledge above the last gear anchor crack and walking but I found it easier to do a mini-lead diagonaling to the tree.

----

One more thing worth noting is that this route gets quite slick and green in the swampy summer months, noticeably worse than a lot of nearby routes. Plan on a much harder effort if climbing then. The slick quartzite also makes a few of the earlier pieces of gear a little more suspect when in these conditions. Apr 28, 2014
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10
As of July 3, 2016, Juggernaut has a clean rappel anchor via a bomber hex and nut with stainless steel cable. No need to traverse across the briars to the top of Juggerhead anymore. Jul 4, 2016