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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Eric Zchiesche, Tom McMillan
Page Views: 1,046 total, 12/month
Shared By: Alexander Blum on Jul 12, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Look for a short, steep, hand crack a few hundred feet before VD, uphill in a large recessed area. The actual 'hand crack' is about 20 feet off the deck. The whole route is steep and juggy, and would be excellent if the rock did not deteriorate in a big way as you get closer to the top of the cliff.

Easiest descent traverses up and right to a fixed lowering station (slings and biners around a tree). This brings you down directly over an excellent 5.8 warm up.

Location

North End

Protection

Light rack to #3 Camalot.

Photos

Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10
As of July 3, 2016, Juggernaut has a clean rappel anchor via a bomber hex and nut with stainless steel cable. No need to traverse across the briars to the top of Juggerhead anymore. Jul 4, 2016
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.10b/c
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
  5.10b/c
Having been up this a few times now, I can attest that there are a couple of good horizontals that can be used to set up anchors for TR near the top. The tree options on top are not very good.

To get down you have to traverse to the decent sized tree over Juggerhead about 30 feet to the right. You could probably do this by mantling onto the dirt ledge above the last gear anchor crack and walking but I found it easier to do a mini-lead diagonaling to the tree.

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One more thing worth noting is that this route gets quite slick and green in the swampy summer months, noticeably worse than a lot of nearby routes. Plan on a much harder effort if climbing then. The slick quartzite also makes a few of the earlier pieces of gear a little more suspect when in these conditions. Apr 28, 2014
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
 
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
 
The warm up I mentioned isn't listed in any guide I have seen. It is directly to the right of Juggernaut-maybe 15 feet or so. Juggernaut is directly up a steep hill between the two main North End cliffs and has a part to miss vertical crack in the middle. Jan 7, 2011
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.10b/c
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
  5.10b/c
Can you provide some more specifics about the 5.8 warm up you mentioned? Is it a named route listed here or in one of the area guides? The Nevermore chimney?

Follow-up: Seems the 5.8 "Juggerhead" that Eddie posted is the route in question. Will check it out soon! Nov 9, 2010