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Routes in Goat Crag (Northern)

Footless Crow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 185 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pete Livesey April 19th 1974
Page Views: 737 total · 8/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jul 12, 2010
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

A superb route ,giving incredible climbing directly up the steep buttress right of Athanor. The climb was based on an old semi aided route The Great Buttress climbed in 1965 by Adrian Liddell and Paul Ross. Quote from the Ross/Thompson 1966 guide book to Borrowdale :-" The man who transforms The Great Buttress from an aid route to a free route is sure of his niche in climbing history"...and so it was.Start as for Athanor. P1) Climb the rib on the left to a belay below the blank looking groove .20' P2)Climb the groove to below a steep crack,as for Athanor. Pull up into the niche above,then go up right to gain a rightward-trending ramp above. Follow this to a bolt and pitons below the roof. Step up and left below the overhangs to the obvious angle piton. For those willing,or able ,the piton on the direct variation is clipped. Then make either a very long reach,lunge,or slap up left to gain the obvious long crack. Step left around the rib to a small green wall and climb up to the overhangs. Pull straight up and step left above the overhang. Continue straight up the slabby wall . Climb a short corner on the right which leads to a ledge and belay below two birch trees.165' 5.12b

Location

Goat Crag , Borrowdale Valley, See FRCC guide to Borrowdale

Protection

Stoppers and cams.

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