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Routes in Desert Shield Buttress

Desert Shield T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C3
Disco Inferno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Lost in Space 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Noodle Nazi T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Aid, 6 pitches, Grade V
FA: Kurt "Burt" Arend & Bob Jacobson
Page Views: 1,216 total, 14/month
Shared By: Kurt Burt on Jul 11, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The route is to the right of the actual Desert Shield Buttress. There is an big chimney at the rim with a big black streak coming out of the bottom. Climb the right facing corners up to the chimney then up the chimney for 2 pitches. The route finishes inside the maw, blocked by a huge roof that is way wide. Rap straight down (not on route the whole way) Easy route, only need a few pins and great position, pitch 2 and 3 are steep and fun. Oh and before somebody freaks, there is a drilled hook on P2... sue me

Location

Way right of Desert Shield buttress under the big chimney at the rim. Start up a ramp to the left of of a big right facing corner. At the top of a ramp (just past old belay from previous attempt) go up the very nice thin crack to an anchor under a roof.

Protection

60M ropes
2 sets nuts
3 ea cams to 3 camalot
2 ea to #5 camalot (old style sizing)
few beaks, blades, LA's, Angles
couple of hooks
rivet hangers

Photos

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