All Locations > International > Europe > Spain > Aragon > Rodellar > Mascun > Las Ventanas > Las Ventanas Main Wall
La vara de Florentino
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||282 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||yevquest on Jul 10, 2010|
DescriptionA good route with some powerful moves but very good rests. This route shares the start and first bolt with A Cravita, the classic 8a.
From the very good tufas, lean out left and clip the 2nd bolt, skipping the 2nd bolt on A Cravita. Some nice shoulderly moves lead to an obvious horn. More powerful climbing culminates in a big move to a very good, sharp jug system. There's a hardish clip before this that many people skip on redpoint. You're not that high off the ground but the fall is safe if your belayer is paying attention. From the jug system, boulder your way (several options) to the obvious hole and rest with a kneebar and leghook. While a bit painful, this rest is very good but pants may help. Leave the hole and head for the black tufa above (at least two different options to get there), passing a difficult to clip bolt that is often skipped on redpoint. From the black tufa make a big move left to an undercling and climb up the black headwall, trying not to blow it from the chains.
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