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Routes in Eagle Crag

Daedalus E3 5c T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Girdle Traverse of Eagle Crag HVS 5b, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Post Mortem E4 5c T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sprogg HVS 5a, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 425 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross ,Geoff Woodhouse ,Frank Caroll. May 31 1959 .
Page Views: 154 total, 2/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jul 9, 2010
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

A fine expedition girdling the crag right to left taking in some fine exposed pitches.Start as for Postern Groove. P1)Climb the grove on its left side to a spike belay. (P1 of Postern Groove) 50'5.7.P2)Move left onto the lower ledge and traverse left across the arete and steep open groove.Continue left stepping a steep open corner,( On an earlier attempt with Bill Aughton Ross in a sudden thunder storm took an 80' fall from this point when a pro piton he tried to use to swing back acrooss the groove pulled,he ended up almost at the very start of the first pitch.)Continue towards a small tree in a groove above on the left. Climb the groove to belay below the crack of Post Mortem.75'.5.9. P3)Delicate moves lead left from the ledge for about 20'to a good ledge. Continue left to belay above some large blocks at the top of pitch one of Green Wall.50'.5.8.P4)Move left up to a ledge.(P2 of Green Wall)26'P5)A very steep traverse left is made on good holds to a small cave.High holds and a mantelshelf lead to a good ledge on the left.Belay below the top pitch of The Verdict.60'5.8+. P6)Traverse left to a steep rib and descend to belay below the large chimney of P5 of The Great Stair. 40'5.8. P7).Traverse left and slightly downwards past the steep ramp-like groove on the top pitch of The Squawk, until a short ascent leads to a grassy bower.60'5.8. P8)Make a few delicate moves up a wall and climb the crack to the summit.65' 5.8+.

Location

Eagle Crag Borrowdale. See FRCC guide to Borrowdale.

Protection

Normal rack.

Photos

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