Type: Sport
FA: Charlie Kardalef, 2008
Page Views: 1,238 total · 12/month
Shared By: Buster Jesik on Jul 8, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

78 Opinions

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Fort Collins, CO
FCJohn   Fort Collins, CO
Buster -

Come'on -- you can do better than this. Location, bolts, etc Jul 30, 2010
Casper WY
canyonclimber   Casper WY
Great line with sinker jugs to the first anchor (10d) Jul 25, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
This route description leaves a little to be desired. Jun 27, 2013
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
this climb is super classic and needs a route description. Climb slightly overhanging rock on jugs to a crux bulge at the top. 4 stars Jul 14, 2013
This is one of those routes that makes you wonder how such a perfect sequence of holds for a human being could occur naturally. Steep rock, big pockets, fun powerful moves... CLASSIC! Sep 3, 2013
The 11a is 10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There is also a 2 bolt anchor a bit to your left after bolt 7 or 8 just before you pull the bulge. If you stop at that anchor, it's easier -- 10d. The first bolt and the bulge were the cruxes for me. Big moves on big holds in between. I was thinking your exact thoughts while climbing, Kenan! Jun 17, 2014
sclair   SLC, Ut
The stack of blocks that are at the base of this climb have collapsed. This happened on the day we arrived (July 2, 2017), prior to roping up. Since I haven't climbed this before I don't know how it affects the route, but I thought getting to the first bolt was significantly harder than 10d, and harder than any 11a we climbed while at Ten Sleep. So, I guess this is a condition report in case this might be at your level and you don't have a stick clip? Also, the belay is gnarly now. Jul 9, 2017
Gary Savage
Las Vegas, NV
Gary Savage   Las Vegas, NV
The start is much harder than 11a. At least 11d now. Aug 19, 2017
bryan brown
the 'ham, nc
bryan brown   the 'ham, nc
As of Aug. 25th, 2017, this route has presumably changed since the printing of the Punk Rock edition of Aaron Huey's guidebook. The sequence up to the first bolt feels like it clocks in around V3/4, and is much more difficult than the advertised crux at the upper bulge. Not sure if this was always the case or holds have changed, but a stick clip is recommended. Fortunately, there's a nice stack of them near the start of Tangerine Fat Explosion. enjoy! Aug 27, 2017
Melody Goudarzi
Los Angeles, CA
Melody Goudarzi   Los Angeles, CA
I might be a Whiny Baby writing this but the first move was definitely an 11+ boulder problem at 5'8 (not a good warm up). My boyfriend is 6'2", and could reach past the hard start to the good holds... with approach shoes. The top is likely 10- climbing and very fun. Aug 30, 2017
Michael Sammartino
Eagle, CO
Michael Sammartino   Eagle, CO
Got on this rig last week and I definitely feel that .11a is a sandbag grade... I agree that the boulder problem at the start felt closer to V3/V4 than .11a. The crux over the bulge was a bit dirty (more people need to get on this!) and, once I found the sequence, I'd give it .11b. Figure this climb would be closer to .11c/d than the .11a rating.

That being said, stick clip the first bolt or two and give it a burn! The moves between the pockets up to the roof are some of the most fun I've done in Ten Sleep and a great reward after figuring out the bouldery start. Jun 24, 2018