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Routes in Whiny Baby Wall

Cloud Peak Vista Traverse Company, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death Metal Navajo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Purple and Yellow Blast S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Santa's Little Prowler S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tangerine Fat Explosion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Team Girl Squad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Team Whiny Baby S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Alli Rainey, 2008
Page Views: 644 total, 7/month
Shared By: Buster Jesik on Jul 8, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

The meat of this one is in the first 4 bolts, thin edges and pockets. After that easy pockets leads to one more thin move before the chains.

Protection

Bolts!

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Yeah the bottom is the crux, but the top is hard too! I had to sit up there for a while brushing holds and figuring out a sequence in the tricky black rock. This wall is littered with bolts. I followed the most plum line that still trended right. I finished on the anchors left of Tangerine, and not the anchors that go straight up in the shallow dihedral, which I think are the anchors for the 11. This is the bolt line the holds directed me toward, but I'm not positive it was correct. Lower Boulder is maybe V7 or soft 8. Hard dead point driveby(?) to a shallow pocket. Tech. Maybe easy 13a, but I haven't climbed a lot of them. Sep 17, 2017
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
So things appear to be harder on this one now due to something breaking in the start area. This is mentioned in the new Ten Sleep BIBLE. Even though most of the climb is pretty cruiser, the start is the business and getting through the first 4 bolts to jugs felt like a really hard Boulder problem in the 13a range. Harder now then its neighbor Tangerine which gets 12d. Who knows? A really good route nonetheless! Aug 11, 2016