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Break On Through

5.10a, Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.6 from 51 votes
FA: Tom Howard, Tom McMillan, 1978
N Carolina > Moore's Wall > Sentinel Buttress > Circus Wall

Description

P1: Climb sentinel chimney to a big ledge. The kind of wide crack right in front of your face is Air Show. It is easy to build a belay here with big nuts/tricams.

P2: From the belay climb right on horizontals until you hit a weird, quartzy crack/corner feature. Blast up this . . . . it stays steep for quite a while. When the angle eases, aim up and a little left towards a crack in the big roof. Cutting feet when you stick the jug earns extra style points. Continue up on easier ground but with a few more steep spots.

Location

Circus Wall

Protection

Standard Moore's dealio

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Post-crux jugs on Break On Through
[Hide Photo] Post-crux jugs on Break On Through
Skinny sends!
[Hide Photo] Skinny sends!
Leader on the Start of Break On Through
[Hide Photo] Leader on the Start of Break On Through
Starting to pull the roof...
[Hide Photo] Starting to pull the roof...
...onto the jug and cutting feet loose! (no fall)
[Hide Photo] ...onto the jug and cutting feet loose! (no fall)
Feeling out the start of the crux.
[Hide Photo] Feeling out the start of the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] This is a great route to "Break on Through" into the 10's. It's an easy one move crux with good protection. You can belay off of the tree below Airshow. Dec 23, 2010
Robert Hutchins
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Would probably rate this higher if it was more sustained at the grade, and if the climbing quality after the roof was better. Agree with Ryan that this is a good route to break into 10- as the opening 5.8 climbing, though having no difficult individual moves, tests the fitness and skills needed to protect 10- climbing. This route isn't just a boulder move. Dec 21, 2011
Jill H.
Spartanburg, SC
[Hide Comment] If you are too short (I’m 5’1”) to reach the finger jam at the roof crux the climb is way harder. On lead it may be possible to go right to get up (I was following so couldn’t try). If your follower is short I suggest leaving a piece with a long draw to pull on if necessary. Jul 13, 2018