PRINT: Rock Climb Bimbo's Bulge, Hanging Rock State Park

Bimbo's Bulge

5.11a, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 3.5 from 35 votes
FA: Rich Gottlieb, Jack Carter 1977
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Hanging Rock SP > Moore's Wall (R… > Sentinel Buttress > Circus Wall

Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

Since the crux hold recently broke (in 2015?), the route went from 10c to probably more like 11b.

P1: Climb the first pitch of Sentinel Buttress.

P2: From the crows nest step up and left, aiming for a triangular roof. Careful, getting established under this roof is tricky. Yard over the overhang and get situated below the next one. Plug some bomber gear and make sure you look down at the 100+ feet of air below you after you ape out the roof.

Location

Circus Wall

Protection

Rack of singles should do it

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Karsten Delap pulling the "new" roof. Rock scar pictured.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ryan Williams
London (sort of)

5.10+

5.9 on thin horizontals for the first 25 feet, then up and left into an alcove under the "Bulge." A V1 boulder problem, very well protected, gets you through the crux overhanging section. Dec 23, 2010

Emil Briggs

A key hold at the crux broke off a little while ago. I have not been up it since then but a friend of mine has and thinks it's probably a 5.11 move now. Jun 8, 2015

Bill Webster
Chapel Hill, NC

I recently took a look at the route to see if its doable without the hold that broke off.

First, protection for the crux is no problem. There is good gear about 1.5 ft below the old high spot. Second, I couldn't figure out a way to do it, but I think that a solid 5.11 climber (or a tall one) could use whats left of the hold to reach the bucket.

Lastly, there is a really cool 5.8-5.9 version of this route that starts at the same spot as the original route. Climb straight up the blunt arete. Stay right of the low crux. Angle left into the corner. Instead of moving left to the roof just move straight up. The broken hold is a blow to moderate climbers but this variation is well worth doing. Jun 8, 2015

nbrown

Did this route today and found the roof to be mid 5.11. There is a good small pocket/edge at the base of where the old hold used to be. I moved more left under the roof than usual and used the pocket for a right handhold to make the big reach. Also, you can get a finger size cam above your head if you want to top rope the move. This route climbs almost the same as before, just with a bigger reach from a smaller hold. Fun stuff! Jun 20, 2015

Sean Lutke
Pinehurst, NC

5.11-

Tough one to grade. Crux bulge is something like v3 but there’s great rests right before and right after. 11b is a bit generous. The first pitch of Cornflake Crack at LG is a little harder tbh. Oct 10, 2022