[Hide Comment] 5.9 on thin horizontals for the first 25 feet, then up and left into an alcove under the "Bulge." A V1 boulder problem, very well protected, gets you through the crux overhanging section. Dec 23, 2010

[Hide Comment] A key hold at the crux broke off a little while ago. I have not been up it since then but a friend of mine has and thinks it's probably a 5.11 move now. Jun 8, 2015

[Hide Comment] I recently took a look at the route to see if its doable without the hold that broke off.

First, protection for the crux is no problem. There is good gear about 1.5 ft below the old high spot. Second, I couldn't figure out a way to do it, but I think that a solid 5.11 climber (or a tall one) could use whats left of the hold to reach the bucket.

Lastly, there is a really cool 5.8-5.9 version of this route that starts at the same spot as the original route. Climb straight up the blunt arete. Stay right of the low crux. Angle left into the corner. Instead of moving left to the roof just move straight up. The broken hold is a blow to moderate climbers but this variation is well worth doing. Jun 8, 2015

[Hide Comment] Did this route today and found the roof to be mid 5.11. There is a good small pocket/edge at the base of where the old hold used to be. I moved more left under the roof than usual and used the pocket for a right handhold to make the big reach. Also, you can get a finger size cam above your head if you want to top rope the move. This route climbs almost the same as before, just with a bigger reach from a smaller hold. Fun stuff! Jun 20, 2015

[Hide Comment] Tough one to grade. Crux bulge is something like v3 but there’s great rests right before and right after. 11b is a bit generous. The first pitch of Cornflake Crack at LG is a little harder tbh. Oct 10, 2022