Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rich Gottlieb, Jack Carter 1977
Page Views: 2,451 total · 23/month
Shared By: Alexander Blum on Jul 8, 2010 with updates from nbrown
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

P1: Climb the first pitch of Sentinel Buttress.

P2: From the crows nest step up and left, aiming for a triangular roof. Careful, getting established under this roof is tricky. Yard over the overhang and get situated below the next one. Plug some bomber gear and make sure you look down at the 100+ feet of air below you after you ape out the roof.

Since the crux hold recently broke (in 2015?), the route went from 10c to probably more like 11b.

Location

Circus Wall

Protection

Rack of singles should do it

Photos

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Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.10+
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
  5.10+
5.9 on thin horizontals for the first 25 feet, then up and left into an alcove under the "Bulge." A V1 boulder problem, very well protected, gets you through the crux overhanging section. Dec 23, 2010
A key hold at the crux broke off a little while ago. I have not been up it since then but a friend of mine has and thinks it's probably a 5.11 move now. Jun 8, 2015
I recently took a look at the route to see if its doable without the hold that broke off.

First, protection for the crux is no problem. There is good gear about 1.5 ft below the old high spot. Second, I couldn't figure out a way to do it, but I think that a solid 5.11 climber (or a tall one) could use whats left of the hold to reach the bucket.

Lastly, there is a really cool 5.8-5.9 version of this route that starts at the same spot as the original route. Climb straight up the blunt arete. Stay right of the low crux. Angle left into the corner. Instead of moving left to the roof just move straight up. The broken hold is a blow to moderate climbers but this variation is well worth doing. Jun 8, 2015
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
Did this route today and found the roof to be mid 5.11. There is a good small pocket/edge at the base of where the old hold used to be. I moved more left under the roof than usual and used the pocket for a right handhold to make the big reach. Also, you can get a finger size cam above your head if you want to top rope the move. This route climbs almost the same as before, just with a bigger reach from a smaller hold. Fun stuff! Jun 20, 2015